Learn About Pressure Washing Decks

pressure washing decks



Providing a service for pressure washing decks makes good sense.

A beautiful wooden deck, properly maintained, can add greatly to the aesthetic and resale values of a home.

Just look around, decks are almost everywhere. Not just houses but both municipal and commercial facilities use wooden decks and walkways extensively. Because of this pressure washing decks can be a great profit center for your business or even the whole businessin itself.

The great news is that decks need maintenance. As beautiful as a wooden deck can be it can be a real eyesore if not properly maintained.

Pressure Washing Decks is Required Maintenance

When a wood deck absorbs the UV rays of the sun and water the natural resins and color can be washed out over time.

The combination of wood and water creates a food source for mildew, fungus and mold, promoting their growth. Wood and water combined with dirt and even air pollutiom will also contribute to the proliferation of mildew, fungus and molds. One thing to remember is that a wet deck with a thick coating of mildrew is very slick and slippery. This creates one heck of a "slip and fall" liability problem. Keep this in mind when speaking to the decision makers of commercial and municipal facilities.

A Learning Curve For Pressure Washing Decks

There is a learning curve involved when getting proficient enough to begin pressure washing decks for the public. It is best to learn about pressure washing decks on your own deck or on the decks of close friends and relatives. When learning the art of pressure washing decks make sure to do more than one. Different decks can present different challenges.


Inspect Carefully Prior to Pressure Washing Decks

When organizing your project or preparing your bid make some simple observations.

Has the deck ever been sealed? Is there old sealer that needs to be stripped and reapplied?

Do I have all the chemicals, tools and equipment required for this project? ( we will include a sample list at the end of this article)

Is there any damaged or rotted wood that needs to be replaced? ( Now is a good time to measure.)

Are the any missing or loose bolts, nails or screws?

Are there any adjacent bushes or plants that need to be protected?

Are there any electrical appliances, outlets, light fixtures or telephone jacks?

Note: these will have to be sealed water tight. Remember water and electricity is a dangerous combination. Decks in upscale neighborhoods will probably contain most of these situations. Make sure the circuit breakers will be accessible to you prior to starting.

Beginning

Ok you've cleared everything from the deck and placed it far enough to be out of harms way. You've locked out the circuit breakers that provide electrical service to the deck area. Outlets, fixtures and jacks have been sealed water tight.

Close proximity plants and bushes have been protected with a clear plastic tarp. Loose bolts. nails and screws have been tightened or replaced.with galvanized fasteners.

Rotted or damaged wood has been replaced.

Only now are you really ready to begin.

Clear the Deck of Dirt and Debris

With a stiff bristle broom or a leaf blower clear all loose dirt and debris from the surface of the deck.

What Chemicals to Use When Pressure Washing Decks

Sodium Hydroxide ( a high caustic chemical) is very popular with professional deck cleaners. Because this chemical does most of the work very low pressures of 500-1200 PSI may be used which helps avoid the condition known as "furring".

Safety note: Always wear headgear with face shields and cartridge type respirators when working with high caustic or acidic chemicals. This is not a suggestion it's a must.

While Sodium Hydroxide is a very effective chemical it will darken or may even blacken the deck. Because of this the high pH will have to be nuetralized with a mild acidic solution which is low pH.
Acids used are Citrus,Oxalic or Phosphoric.

These acid solutions will act as brighteners. Neutralizing the pH of a high caustic cleaner will restore a deck very close to it's original color.

Add approx. 5oz. acid to each gallon of water.

Citrus Acid- Used on hardwoods.

Oxalic Acid- Primarily used on redwoods.

Phosphoric Acid- Used when an unfinished deck has turned "gray".

I'm very hesitant to suggest a pressure level when it comes to cleaning decks because it's just so subjective. One deck will have harder wood than another and other decks will have softer and harder areas on the same deck. In this respect you will come to learn that only the activity knowledge gained by "doing" will teach you how much is enough. As a general rule of thumb use the least amount of pressure that will get the job done.

Test pressure on an inconspicuous area of the deck. The underside works well for this

Excessive Pressure.

Excessive pressure will cause a deck to "furr".This is the appearance of small hairlike fibers protruding from the wood. Your customers will not like the way this looks and light sanding will be required to correct this condition.

Ready, Set, Go!

Soak the area to be cleaned thuroughly. This serves several purposes but most importantly, the deck must remain damp throughout the entire cleaning process.

Apply cleaning chemical with the applicator of your choice.When just starting out a pump up type sprayer will work nicely. Allow your chemical to dwell for 15-20 minutes. Do not allow to dry. If necessary spray more water or reapply chemical. If you've sufficiently dampened the deck and haven't dawdled this shouldn't be a big problem.

Clean.
Remember when cleaning use low pressure. Never clean against the grain or accross the grain. Feather each pass. The pressure used should be enough to remove dead wood but not enough to cause "furring". Remember, practice then practice some more is the mantra.

Rinse deck thoroughly removing all chemical. Apply nuetralizer/brightener solution, wait 10-15 minutes and rinse well again.

If you are going to seal wait 24 hours if not 48. If you chose your day well rain won't become a problem.

"Furring" Happens.

Sometimes "furring" will become apparent even at low pressures. These short hair like fibers are the result of a "tearing" action on the wood. These will probably be gone in 2-3 weeks but your customer will want them gone sooner than later. Give them a light sanding with a bronze metal scrubbing pad. Use bronze, steel wool can leave rust stains.

ample Job List For Pressure Wahing Decks What not to leave behind.

Here is a general list of things to bring to your job site. Some of this may not apply to your particular job. The point is to always work with a job list to avoid the embarrasment or expense of missing that tool you need right now.

Pressure Washer- Cold water gas machine 5.5-11HP commercial grade unit.
Hot Washers are also used but at very low temperatures generally not exceeding 110F.

Hoses- Sufficient lengths of both pressure hose and supply hose.

Brooms/Blower- A stiff bristled push broom (not metal) and/or a gas powered leaf blower.

Chemical applicator - Pump-up type sprayer,Flo-Jet, X-Jet or standard "downstream" injector.

Mixing Buckets - 2or3 5 gallon plastic mixing buckets.

Mixers- Drill type chemical mixer.

Respirator- Cartridge type with spares (When working with high caustics and acids)

Face and Eye Protection- Some type of helmet with face shield.

Cordless Drill- With phillips screwbit and chuck large enough to accomodate chemical mixer.

Hammer- If nails are required.

Deck Screws, Nails and Bolts- As required, use galvanized only.

Duct tape, Clear plastic sheeting,Cardboard- To protect areas

Extension Cords- Must be adequate length and gauge. 12 gauge minimum.

Electric Rotary Sander- With 60 and 80 grit sandpaper.

Knee Pads- You didn't think you'd always be standing when sanding did you?

Remember practice makes perfect and your very best learning will come by doing. So get out there and start pressure washing decks.


Superior chemicals for pressure washing decks

Sun Brite Supply - The Specialists in Wood Deck Restoration

 

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